P0455 on a 2017 Toyota Tacoma
P0455 means the EVAP system failed a leak check badly enough that the computer sees a large leak or no pressure/vacuum change.
Not your vehicle? See general P0455 info.
Most common causes on the 2017 Toyota Tacoma
Ranked from 237 NHTSA owner complaints filed for this vehicle.
- 1
Fuel filler door damaged/won't close, breaking the cap seal
Low severityOne owner reports the fuel filler door broke and would no longer close, leaving the cap area unsealed and producing a leak large enough to register as a gross EVAP leak.
Reported in 1 NHTSA complaint - 2
EVAP leak-detection pump / charcoal canister assembly beginning to fail
Medium severityAn owner reports the leak detection pump sub-assembly at the charcoal canister pumping loudly for extended periods, indicating the EVAP monitor is struggling to seal/test the system.
Reported in 1 NHTSA complaint - 3
Missing, loose, or improperly seated gas cap
Low severityA cap that isn't fully sealed is the most common trigger for a large EVAP leak code.
Common causeParts:gas cap - 4
Disconnected or split EVAP hose/line
Medium severityA hose popped off a fitting or split open creates a large leak path the EVAP monitor detects quickly.
Common cause - 5
Vent valve stuck open or failed
Medium severityThe canister vent valve must seal for the EVAP system to build test vacuum; a stuck-open valve reads as a gross leak.
Common causeParts:vent valve - 6
Cracked charcoal canister
Medium severityA cracked or corroded canister housing leaks fuel vapor directly to atmosphere.
Common causeParts:charcoal canister
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These causes are aggregated from NHTSA owner complaints and general repair knowledge — this is not a diagnosis. P0455 on your car still needs shop confirmation before any repair.
Common symptoms
- Check engine light
- Fuel smell
- Usually no performance issue
- Failed emissions readiness
What to check before replacing parts
Check the gas cap first
Look for: A loose, missing, or cross-threaded cap is by far the most common cause of a large EVAP leak code — if it doesn't click to full tightness or the seal is cracked, that's very likely the whole fault.
Inspect visible EVAP hoses
Look for: A large leak is often obvious: a hose disconnected at a fitting, split open, or chewed through (rodent damage is common) rather than a hairline crack.
Command the purge and vent valves with a scan tool
Look for: A valve that doesn't respond at all when commanded open/closed, or stays open when it should seal, prevents the system from holding pressure/vacuum and reads as a large leak.
Smoke-test the system
Look for: With a large leak, expect an obvious plume of smoke or a clearly audible hiss at the fault location — it should be easy to spot compared to a small-leak diagnosis.
Inspect the canister and filler neck
Look for: A cracked charcoal canister housing or a corroded/rusted-through filler neck (common on older vehicles) can leak enough to prevent the system from ever holding vacuum.
Rather have a pro handle it? Find a vetted local mechanic.