P0300 on a 2013 Ford Escape
P0300 is a generic OBD2 powertrain code for random or multiple cylinder misfire. Unlike P0301 through P0308, it does not point to one specific cylinder, so the cause can be ignition, fuel, air, sensor, or mechanical.
Not your vehicle? See general P0300 info.
Most common causes on the 2013 Ford Escape
Ranked from 2,743 NHTSA owner complaints filed for this vehicle.
- 1
Coolant Intrusion into Engine Cylinders
High severityCoolant leaks into the engine cylinders (often due to a cracked cylinder head or block), causing misfires, excessive white smoke, and coolant loss without external leaks. This is a known issue for the 1.6L and 2.0L EcoBoost engines.
Reported in 11 NHTSA complaints - 2
Cracked Cylinder Head / Blown Head Gasket
High severityA cracked cylinder head or failed head gasket allows coolant to enter the combustion chamber, leading to misfires and overheating. Look for coolant loss, white smoke, and misfire codes.
Reported in 5 NHTSA complaints - 3
Faulty Ignition Coils
Medium severityIgnition coils can fail or degrade over time, leading to a weak or absent spark. This is confirmed by swapping the coil to another cylinder and seeing if the misfire follows.
Common cause - 4
Worn or Fouled Spark Plugs
Low severitySpark plugs wear out or become fouled by oil or coolant, preventing proper ignition. Inspect the spark plugs for wear, carbon buildup, or coolant residue.
Common cause - 5
Vacuum Leaks
Medium severityUnmetered air entering the intake manifold can lean out the air/fuel mixture, causing random misfires. Listen for hissing sounds or use a smoke machine to find leaks.
Common cause - 6
Fuel Delivery Issues (Injectors or Pump)
Medium severityClogged fuel injectors or a failing fuel pump can cause an improper air/fuel mixture, leading to misfires. Check fuel pressure and inspect injectors for proper operation.
Common cause
These causes are aggregated from NHTSA owner complaints and general repair knowledge — this is not a diagnosis. P0300 on your car still needs shop confirmation before any repair.
Common symptoms
- Flashing or steady check engine light
- Rough idle
- Shaking under acceleration
- Loss of power
- Fuel smell from exhaust
What to check before replacing parts
Scan for cylinder-specific misfire codes
Look for: A companion P0301–P0308 pins the misfire to one cylinder — start there. P0300 with no cylinder code points at something hitting several at once: fuel pressure, a large vacuum leak, or timing.
Inspect the spark plugs and coils
Look for: Pull the plugs: black/sooty = rich, oily = oil intrusion, white/blistered = lean or overheating, cracked porcelain or an out-of-spec gap = replace. Then swap a coil to another cylinder — if a cylinder-specific code follows the coil, the coil is bad.
Check fuel trims for a vacuum leak
Look for: High positive short- and long-term trims (worst at idle, improving as RPM rises) mean unmetered air is getting in. Smoke-test the intake and listen for hissing.
Verify fuel pressure
Look for: Compare running/cranking pressure to the vehicle spec. Low or dropping pressure starves multiple cylinders and reads as a random misfire — suspect the pump, filter, or regulator.
Compression / leak-down test if ignition and fuel check out
Look for: A cylinder 15%+ below the others, or leak-down hissing from the intake (intake valve), exhaust (exhaust valve), or oil filler (rings), means the misfire is mechanical — not a swap-in part.
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